Monasteries   in   Ladakh

  • Alchi   Choskor

    Situated at a distance of about 70 km west of Leh, on the left bank of the Indus, the Alchi Choskor (religious enclave) is believed to have been founded by the great translator Rinchen Zangpo in the early eleventh century. The term Choskor is applied only to the principal monasteries of Rinchen Zangpo’s time. Inscriptions, however, show that the Alchi temples were founded by Kaldan Shesrab, a follower of Rinchen Zangpo. Alchi is a treasure trove of early Buddhist art in the Kashmiri tradition. Both the architecture and the paintings/iconography actual express a style that is quite different from Tibetan art. Along with Tabo in Spiti and the earliest buildings of Phugtal in Zanskar, it is one of the few remaining examples of that era. It is said to have been shifted in the fifteenth century from the influence of the Gelugpa, who took over most of the Kadampa monasteries. The monastery is maintained by the monks of Lekir. The principal temples are the Rinchen Lhakhang (temple), the Lotsava Lhakhang, the Jamyang Lhakhang (Manjusiri temple) and the Sumtsag Lhakhang (three-tiered temple).
    It is said ‘Alchi choskor is a fantastic chance survival from the past, and as such, is truly one of the wonders of the Buddhist world. Alchi reflects the existence of a Buddhsit Kashmir and a Buddhist India - things that do not exist today.

  • Lamayuru   Monastery

    It is situated just off the Leh-Srinagar highway, about 125 km west of Leh. The terraced buildings of the monastery are on a hill overlooking an enchanted landscape encircled by wind-eroded lacustrine deposits tinted in a fantastic ochrous yellow. According to a legend (which here, as in Kashmir, is confirmed by geology), there was a great lake in this place until Arhat Nyimagung prophesised a monastery. In the eleventh century, the great Indian sage, Naropa, meditated here for several years in a cave. The site of the monastery is probably the oldest in Ladakh with the first temple being built in the time of Rinchen Zangpo. For the first 500 years, it belonged to the Kadampa (Kargyud) sect, but during King Jamyang Namgyal’s rule during the sixteenth century, it was converted to the Digung sect as an act of offering. The oldest temple, the Sengesang, possesses a stucco of Vairocana seated on a lion throne. The main temple has the cave of Naropa. It contains three clay statues representing the three great masters: Naropa, Marpa and Milarepa. Naropa was the teacher of Marpa, who started Kargyud sect. The successive reincarnations of Skyabsje Toldan Rinpoche act as the chief lamas/skushoks of the monastery. It has its festival in the fifth Tibetan month.

  • Phyang   Monastery

    Phyang monastery (3555m) is situated about 17 km west of Leh (about 3km from the main highway). It is said to have been built in the 16th century under the order of King Tashi Namgyal. This is the first Drigung-pa monastery in Ladakh, the others being Lamayuru and Shashikul (in Changthang). According to a popular legend, a flagpole was erected at a spot from where one can have the first glimpse of the monastery. Anyone guilty of a crime, if could manage to reach this spot and confess his crime, was pardoned. Of particular interest in the gonpa is the exquisite collection of pre-fourteenth century Kashmiri bronzes. The tradition of the Digung teachings began with Skyoba Jigsten Gonbo. The Drigungpa teachings of Skyoba Jigsten Gonbo were founded by Chosje Danma Kunga. A five storey thanka of Jigsten Gonbo is a prize possession of this gonpa.

  • Lekir   Monastery

    It lies in a side-valley of the Indus about 50 km from Leh. It was founded during the reign of Lhachen Gyalpo (1100-1125 AD), the fifth king of Ladakh when he offered the present site to lama Duwang Chosje. It is said to be the first monastery to have established the lamasery system. The original structure was destroyed by a fire so the present structure is only about 200 years old. Originally a Kadampa foundation, it was taken over by the Gelugpa sect in the fifteenth century and the skushok (chief abbot) is the Ngari Rinpoche. It has its festival in the 12th month of Tibetan calendar.
    The newly built impressive Gyalwa Chamba, the future Buddha, (Maitreya Buddha) of Lekir was one of the first of its kind in Ladakh. It was consecrated on 15th September, 1997 by Sras Rinpoche of Rizong.

  • Basgo

    The village Basgo lies about 40 km to the west of Leh along the right bank of the Indus. The highway cuts through the village and on the right side, up on the craggy clayey mountain, lie the fort and the temples. It is also known as Basgo Rabstan Lhartse Khar.
    Despite the fact that Basgo fort is a ruined crag, it is one of the most impressive sites worth a visit. Basgo used to be the capital of lower Ladakh which was ruled by Drags pa Bum, but during the reign of Bhagan (in second half of 15th century), the capital was shifted to Leh, when upper and lower Ladakh were united. The fort is precariously situated on the hill and in 1680, it withstood three year siege from a Tibeto-Mongol onslaught. To break the siege, the King of Ladakh had to ask the Moghuls to send troops (1683), but it came with a cost that the king would convert to Islam.
    There are three main temples around the ruined forts and it is under Drugpa Kargyudpa order of Hemis. The Meitreya of Basgo has a pure Tibetan influence, unlike Kashmiri and Indian influences which are visible at Alchi. This and later monasteries started showing the Tibetan influence.
    The entire complex was on the verge of decay, with the palace almost in ruins. In early 1990s, a community based conservational effort took the initiative to restore the glory. The task soon got paid with help from various organizations like UNESCO, World Monument Fund (WMF) and NIRLAC (Namgyal Institue for Research on Ladakhi Art and Culture). In 2007, the project’s initiative and hard work paid off when UNESCO’s Asia-Pacific Heritage Award of Excellence was awarded to it. This old ruined castle was also a site of a song sequence in Bollywood film, ‘Dil Se’. You may like to watch it next time.

  • Thikse   monastery

    It is about 20 km to the east of Leh. This fantastic architectural complex, resembling the Potala of Lhasa (Tibet), takes up a whole hillside on the right bank of the Indus. The monastery was founded by Sherab Zanpo’s nephew, Paldan Sherab in the fifteenth century. It belongs to the Gelugpa sect. The temple on the right of the courtyard houses a 15 metre statue of the Maitreya or Future Buddha. It was finished in 1981. At the back of the Dukhang, there is a Buddha-image that is believed to date back to the mid fifteenth century.

  • Hemis   monastery

    About 50 km to the east of Leh on the left bank of Indus, Hemis is perhaps the most famous and richest of Ladakh’s monasteries. When you drive to this gonpa, however, the road after crossing Indus seems to take you nowhere. We mean once across the river, the landscape looks as barren as anywhere else. In mountains like these, things can be seen from miles away but here there is no sign of the settlement or gonpa at all. The scenario does not change even when one travels a couple of Kms more. The first signs are seen in the form of a very long mane wall with integrated Chortens and a few flags on either side of the road. It is a perfectly hidden area and, thus, has a feel of isolation and eternal tranquillity. This complex is situated inside Hemis National Park that is home to endangered snow leopards. The Hemis monastic complex is located at an altitude of 12,000 feet.
    Hemis gonpa is believed to have been established in 1630 by Lama Stagstang Raschen under the patronage of King Sengge Namgyal. The start point of the construction had been a cave hermitage dating from the 12th century. It is also known as Chang Chub Sang Ling (the solitary place of the compassionate ones). It has a huge impressive 12 m tall Guru Padmasambhava image in one of the temple rooms, completed recently, about 20 years back. It belongs to the Drugpa order of the Kargyupa sect (and Red Hat Order). The successive reincarnations of Lama Stagtsang Raschen act as the Rinpoche of the monastery. It has it famous festival Hemis Tsechu in the fifth month of Tibetan calendar and is dedicated to Padmasambhava. It also contains the world’s biggest thanka that is unfurled once in twelve year. The monastery also offers stay options within the complex.

  • Stok   Palace

    Stok village is located about 15 km from Leh. Almost 200 years old, 185 years to be specific, this palace became residence of royal family of famous Namgyal Dynasty after the ruling family had to move out from Leh Palace after invasion by Dogras under General Zorawar Singh in 1830s. Stok palace was built by the King Tsepal Tondup Namgyal in 1825. It houses a museum containing an interesting collection of exhibits including the king’s crown and ceremonial dress, the queen’s turquoise head-dress and other jewellery, some armour, and a set of thankas (religious paintings) dating from the reign of Tashi Namgyal. The festival of Guru Tsechu is held in the first month of Tibetan calendar.
    The present queen still lives here. There is a good cafe with a great view from its terrace, a souvenir shop and a museum in addition to living quarters of the royal family. The palace also has an in-house suite that can be hired for a fair price (approximately Rs 10,000/- per night in 2011). The entry to the museum is through a ticket costing Rs 50/- a piece. The view of Leh-Choglamsar, with Ladakh Range in the background, from the precincts of the façade, is fascinating. For those who do not like to climb stairs at such an altitude, an approach from the rear side will save the effort. Irrespective of the route taken, only one entrance is open to public use.

  • Spituk   Gonpa

    The Spituk gonpa (locally known as Pethup Galdan Targiasling) is about 7km from Leh. The village itself is situated on the right bank of Indus and the monastery is over a hill overlooking the village and the river. This is the first Gelugpa monastery, founded at Spe-thub (means ‘effective as an example’) by Lama Lhawang Lodoe in 14th /15th century. It is also considered to be the first pure Tibetan monastery in Ladakh. However, a popular belief exists in Ladakh according to which the monastery came into existence by a miracle. The monastery at present is headed by the successive reincarnations of the Bakula Rinpoche, one of the sixteen Arhats.
    The approach road to the monastery is from northern (back) side, overlooking the airport runway. The courtyard and some parts have been recently repaired. The main rooms in the monastry are Dukhang, Chikhang and Gonkhang. The monastery is famous for its Gonkhang. It is situated right on the top of the hill. Painted red from outside, it houses a giant statue of Vajrabhairava which many non-local Indians (soldiers in particular) come to worship for they take it for an image of their goddess Kali. That is the reason that it is also referred to as Kaali Mata’s temple. This one and the Mahakala are carved out of black stones and are unveiled once a year during the annual festival- the Spituk Gustor. Images of other fierce guardians, the six-armed Mahakala, the white guardian (Gonkar), the ‘Brother-Sister’ (chamring), Khyitra on his dog, and the Goddess (lhamo) on her horse are also to be found inside.
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